KO Count

⭐ Recommended

Knock-Out, developed by Olaf Vancura and Ken Fuchs. An unbalanced system that eliminates true count conversion — making it faster, cleaner, and more accurate under casino conditions.

The Key Difference from Hi-Lo

In Hi-Lo, 7 = 0. In KO, 7 = +1. That's it. One card changes everything — it makes the system unbalanced, which means you never need to calculate a true count. The running count IS your betting count.

Card Values

+1

2 · 3 · 4 · 5 · 6 · 7

7 is +1 in KO
(not 0 like Hi-Lo)

0

8 · 9

Neutral cards.
Ignore them.

−1

10 · J · Q · K · A

Same as Hi-Lo.

Starting Count by Deck

Because KO is unbalanced, you start at a negative number based on the number of decks. This pre-calibrates the count so your betting trigger is always +4 (the "pivot point").

1 deckStart: 0Key count: 2Pivot: +2
2 decksStart: -4Key count: 1Pivot: +4
6 decksStart: -20Key count: -4Pivot: +4
8 decksStart: -28Key count: -6Pivot: +4

Most casinos use 6 or 8 decks. Start at -20 or -28, raise bets when count reaches +4.

Betting with KO (6-deck example)

Below -4Table minimumHouse edge
-4 to 01× minNear neutral
0 to +42× minSlight player edge
+4 (pivot)4× min+0.5% edge
+8+Max spread+1.5%+ edge

Why We Recommend KO

No true count conversion. With Hi-Lo you need to mentally divide your running count by decks remaining — constantly, mid-hand, while making conversation, while watching the dealer's hole card. KO eliminates this entirely.

Fewer errors = more money. A perfect KO player beats an imperfect Hi-Lo player every time. Execution accuracy matters more than theoretical edge.

Used by modern professional teams. Hi-Lo has the history (MIT team), but KO is what serious solo counters use today for its simplicity and accuracy under pressure.

Deck Penetration — Why Table Selection Matters →